Have you ever wondered how to stretch the potential of a single potted of stem plants to multiply its presence in your aquarium? Well, wonder no more. We're about to take you on a journey that will reveal the magic of propagating multiple stem plants from just one pot. Setting the Stage: Experiment with Rotala For our demonstration, we chose a potted Rotala with top cuts already done. This choice provides a versatile platform to explore various techniques and options available for propagating stem plants. Step 1: Setting the Roots Free Picture 2 showcases the first crucial step - freeing the plants from their pots and meticulously removing any traces of rockwool or soil from the roots. When dealing with rockwool, it's vital to keep the roots as intact as possible while ensuring no remnants of rockwool cling to the roots that are bound for the aquarium. In cases where the plant has rooted in soil, a simple water dip washes the soil away effortlessly. Step 2: Simple Planting Method Picture 3 illustrates the straightforward method – planting them as they are. Eight healthy stems are ready to grow in your aquarium with just this technique. But let's not stop at "good enough." Step 3: Cut and Multiply Pictures 4 invite us to dive into the world of multiplication. By slicing the stems into distinct sections, we unlock a world of possibilities. Step 4: A Divided Abundance Picture 5 unveils the result – 22 smaller plant sections, each sporting a leaf attached to a stem. Yet, for the truly adventurous souls, the journey doesn't end here. Step 5: Dividing Further Picture 6 reveals an even more advanced route. Divide those sections even further, and the possibilities expand to over 40 viable pieces, each brimming with potential. Step 6: Pruning for Prosperity Picture 7 acts as your guide, illustrating the art of trimming roots while ensuring rapid, healthy growth. Did you catch the twist? We intentionally showcased cuttings without leaves. In four weeks' time, these leafless nodes will teach you a valuable lesson – as long as stems and roots are robust, growth is unstoppable. The Final Picture: Your Aquarium's Bounty And there it is, the end result of our planting expedition. A lush array of stems destined to flourish in your aquatic haven. Curious for the Outcome? Contact Us! Now, are you curious to witness the marvel of our experiment four weeks from now? Send a WhatsApp message to 0612273588, and we'll make sure you're right there to witness the flourishing outcome. Stay tuned for more green wonders and growth adventures! 🌱🌿🌱

Should I buy my plants grown submerged or emersded and then should this plant be in rockwool or rooted in soil? I will try and help you answer this with this article. Determining the ideal plant growth type for your aquarium isn't a straightforward matter, as there are various elements to take into account. Factors such as transportation logistics, adaptation to new water conditions, and potential leaf loss all play a pivotal role in making the right choice. When it comes to aquarium plants, three primary options are available: 1. Submerged Plants Opting for submerged plants should be your initial choice, as they tend to initiate growth almost immediately. In the majority of cases, this is the most favourable option, as the leaves are already acclimated to an underwater environment and are likely to thrive in your aquarium. While approximately 90% of plants fall seamlessly into this category, certain exceptions, such as specific Cryptocoryne species, might encounter challenges when adapting to different conditions. There's also a slight risk of leaf damage during the transport process. However, many enthusiasts, myself included, consider this risk worthwhile. 2. Emersed ROOTED Plants in Soil Plants grown emersed in soil exhibit growth rates comparable to submerged plants. This alternative is advantageous in that it outperforms submerged plants in terms of adjusting to aquarium conditions. However, a key drawback lies in the gradual loss of leaves that originally grew emersed. In our cultivation system, we've observed that plants cultivated in soil adapt remarkably quickly to aquarium environments when compared to those grown in rockwool. One aspect to bear in mind with this option is the necessity of carefully rinsing off the soil before planting. This step ensures root preservation and prevents soil contamination in your aquarium. 3. Emersed Plants in Rockwool Emersed plants housed in rockwool are the go-to solution for local aquatic shops due to their ease of transportation. While our experience indicates that this method isn't inherently unfavourable, it doesn't claim the title of the best option either; it merely serves as a viable alternative. (ALL PICTURES ARE THE SAME SPECIES - Rotala rotunsdifolia) Ultimately, selecting the right plant growth type for your aquarium requires thoughtful consideration of these factors. Each choice comes with its own set of advantages and potential drawbacks, so it's essential to evaluate your priorities and the specific needs of your aquatic environment.

Navigating the Hurdles: Overcoming Challenges in Closed Terrarium Building - Building closed terrariums offers a captivating journey into the world of miniature ecosystems, but it's not without its share of challenges. The art of crafting a self-sustaining, enclosed botanical wonderland demands a keen understanding of the environment, plant life, and the delicate balance of factors that sustain it. Let's delve deeper into the challenges that terrarium enthusiasts often face and explore ways to triumph over them. 1. Moisture Control: The Art of Finding Moisture Balance The heart of a closed terrarium's success lies in maintaining an optimal moisture level. Walking the tightrope between dampness and dryness can be daunting. While excessive moisture might pave the way for mold and rot, too little moisture can leave plants parched. Regularly monitoring humidity levels, choosing the right plants, and enrolling in advanced courses like our terrarium workshop or advanced terrarium course can provide valuable insights into mastering this art. 2. Picking the Right Plants: A Puzzle to Solve Plant selection plays a pivotal role in terrarium success. Not all plants thrive within the confines of a closed environment. Factors such as light intensity, temperature, and humidity are vital considerations. As we offer guidance in our terrarium workshop, participants discover the importance of harmonizing plant choices with the terrarium's unique conditions, ensuring longevity and vibrancy. 3. Illuminating the Path: The Challenge of Light The issue of lighting casts a literal spotlight on terrarium health. Proper illumination fuels plant growth and vitality. Yet, challenges arise when the terrarium resides in a dimly lit space. In such cases, modern white LED lighting emerges as a cost-effective solution, mimicking natural sunlight and nurturing the green residents within. 4. Soil and Drainage: The Foundation of Success The cornerstone of terrarium health lies in soil quality and drainage. Selecting a well-draining soil mix prevents waterlogging while maintaining ideal moisture levels. Introducing innovative solutions like the use of akadama for drainage enhances the terrarium's resilience against root rot and other soil-related issues. 5. Employing Nature's Janitors: Springtails, Isopods and Millipedes Creating a harmonious microcosm involves more than just plants. Introducing natural clean-up crews such as springtails, isopods and millipedes not only recycles decaying matter but also maintains the ecosystem's equilibrium. Understanding their role and population dynamics contributes to the terrarium's long-term well-being. 6. Waging War Against Pests and Diseases Terrariums, like any environment, can be vulnerable to unwanted invaders. Pests introduced like mites and fungus gnats, and aphids, necessitate vigilance. This can be from either baby’s or eggs in the soil or on the plants you introduce to your terrarium. Regular inspections and removal, can help thwart these unwelcome visitors. 7. Pruning and TLC: Sustaining Beauty and Balance Just like tending to a garden, a terrarium thrives with regular pruning and maintenance. Trimming unruly growth, removing deceased leaves, and ensuring controlled plant expansion are essential to prevent overcrowding and to uphold the terrarium's aesthetic allure. 8. Terrarium Dimensions and Accessibility: A Practical Perspective The size and shape of a terrarium can impact both its design and maintenance. While certain dimensions might pose challenges, selecting a terrarium with a wider mouth and larger volume ensures easier planting, decorating, and upkeep. In conclusion, building closed terrariums offers a rewarding venture into the realm of horticultural artistry. While challenges abound, education, research, and seeking advice from seasoned enthusiasts can unravel their complexities. Armed with knowledge and a dash of creativity, individuals can conquer these challenges, nurturing thriving, enchanting miniature ecosystems within their terrariums. So, embark on this journey, armed with insights, and watch your miniature world flourish!

Introduction: Embarking on a journey before the advent of today's technology, I recall the challenges we faced in growing aquatic plants without the convenience of aquasoils or affordable plant food. Our knowledge was limited to using ordinary aquarium gravel, forcing us to get creative with our approaches. Through countless experiments and failures, we managed to cultivate breathtaking plants despite the constraints we encountered. Tips on how we got from this (top) to this (bottom) Feeding Aquatic Plants: My Experiences To provide essential nutrients through the water column, we relied on liquid garden plant fertilizers. Adhering to the recommended types and dosages, we cautiously started with only one-third of the suggested amount. If we noticed no signs of algae or other issues, we gradually increased the dosage. In case our efforts yielded disappointing results, we would switch to different brands, with a preference for those rich in kelp content. Sadly, some of the best brands we relied on are no longer available. However, our unwavering commitment to using liquid fertilizers stemmed from the belief that they provided a comprehensive blend of essential elements in a single dose. Substrate Enrichment: My Exploration Our journey into substrate enrichment involved a myriad of trials. We delved into spot feeding with plant food tablets, and experimented with unconventional options like rabbit droppings, chicken droppings, compost/clay balls, and more. After multiple attempts, I discovered that single rabbit droppings or clay/compost balls worked best for me, as other alternatives proved too potent and often resulted in root burns—particularly chicken droppings. When it came to the bottom substrate beneath the inert aquarium gravel, I ventured into using potting soil, composts, garden gravel/sand, and even cat litter. My most successful mix consisted of pure original bentonite cat litter (unscented), garden sand, and a small portion of potting soil. Maintaining a depth of no more than 2 to 3cm, I topped it off with 12 to 16cm of aquarium gravel. While some enthusiasts achieved better results with compost instead of potting soil, I encountered significant setbacks when I attempted to incorporate it into my setup. Through countless trials and errors, my fellow enthusiasts and I discovered a couple of tricks that significantly aided our endeavours. First, we decided to boil the potting soil and garden sand in a pressure cooker, believing it would eliminate fungi and algae thus curbing the sudden pollution that can be caused by soil. This simple step prevented overnight disasters that would pollute our systems. Additionally, we learned the hard way that it was crucial to mix the cat litter in a separate bucket before introducing it into the aquarium. The reaction with water released an astonishing amount of heat, resulting in an unfortunate incident where I destroyed the bottom of one of my aquariums. Balancing the "Table": Lessons Learned Early on, I struggled to grasp the importance of balance in creating a stable "table" for my planted aquarium. This "table" represented the three crucial components: food, CO2, and lighting. My initial approach placed excessive emphasis on food, neglecting the other two pillars. As a result, my "table" constantly toppled over, leaving me frustrated. However, as I invested in better lighting—increasing both the intensity and quantity—I began witnessing gradual improvements in my results. Still, something was missing to achieve greatness. It was at this point that I decided to venture into the world of DIY CO2 supplementation. I experimented with a Sodastream bottle and was pleasantly surprised by the significant improvement it brought to my plants. Suddenly, the fruits of my labour blossomed with greater vitality and beauty. Lessons and Advice: A Personal Reflection Reflecting on my journey, I offer the following advice to those who prefer to embrace traditional methods or face budget constraints: 1. Begin with water column feeding using tried and tested aquarium products readily available on the market. 2. Enhance your lighting system within the limits of your budget. Even simple additions such as 10W LED spotlights can make a noticeable difference. 3. If you encounter issues with algae, increase the number of plants in your aquarium and dramatically reduce the lighting duration until the algae growth is under control. Then increase it gradually to find that sweet spot 4. Aspiring to incorporate a DIY CO2 system? Here it is imperative to exercise caution when handling liquid-based mixtures. Even a slight contamination can spell disaster for your beloved aquatic ecosystem. Sadly, I witnessed numerous well-established planted aquariums crashing due to DIY CO2 liquid contamination, so vigilance is paramount. I would rather venture towards “Sodastream” bottles Conclusion: Remember, cultivating aquatic plants is a hobby that knows no boundaries. While rules may be absent, I share these insights and suggestions from my personal experiences and those of fellow enthusiasts. By embracing traditional methods and leveraging the knowledge accumulated from past practices, it is indeed possible to nurture stunning aquatic plants, even without subsoil or CO2 supplementation. NEXT: Growing Stunning Aquatic Plants in inert aquarium gravel Without Subsoil or CO2

Red-coloured aquarium plants hold a special allure within the planted aquarium community. While not all plants possess the genetic trait to turn red, there are several species that can display vibrant red hues under the right conditions. In this article, we will explore the key factors that contribute to the development of deep red coloration in aquarium plants, as well as provide suitable options for beginners in the realm of planted tanks. It is important to note that the provision of optimal conditions, such as high-tech setups with CO2 supplementation, intense lighting, and fertilizers, tends to promote overall plant health and potentially enhance red coloration. The Role of Carbon Dioxide (CO2): Carbon dioxide is a critical element in the growth, development, and appearance of all aquatic plants. Many plants, initially appearing green, can transition to exhibit red accents or even turn entirely red when supplied with sufficient levels of CO2. For most planted tank enthusiasts, maintaining CO2 levels between 20-40 ppm proves to be ideal. The goal is to achieve a CO2 saturation point that fulfills the plants' requirements without exceeding the necessary amount. Excessive CO2 can lead to fish distress, causing them to gasp for air and potentially resulting in fatalities. Fortunately, plants themselves can tolerate elevated CO2 levels without adverse effects. The Significance of Light Intensity: Although CO2 plays a vital role in determining red coloration, it is not the sole determining factor. Light intensity also significantly influences plant coloration, and it is often the primary consideration for aquarists when assessing the redness of their plants. Notably, when certain plants reach closer to the water's surface, where light intensity is higher, the tips tend to turn red while the rest of the plant remains green. This observation suggests that the proximity, strength, and wavelength of the light source contribute to the manifestation of red coloration. In our summer submerged containers, the benefit of intense light is highlighted with intense reds on all plants that can produce red leaves even though we do not add fertilizers or CO2 leading me to believe lighting is the most important aspect. Studies suggest that the intensified red pigment serves as a form of sunscreen for the plant cells. Therefore, increasing light intensity can result in visible "suntanning" of certain plants, enhancing their red coloration. I whole heartedly support this! The PROOF is this Bacopa amplexicaulis that normally stay green BUT turned a purple / red colour in our submerged tubs!! AWASOME Iron (Fe) and its Role: Iron (Fe) is an essential micronutrient for all aquarium plants, found in various cellular components. It serves as a co-factor in many enzymes involved in pigment generation and, consequently, the expression of red coloration in plants. Some hobbyists emphasize the supplementation of iron as a key factor in achieving red plants. While this viewpoint is not entirely inaccurate, as iron does play a role, it is worth noting that plants can readily exhibit red coloration without additional iron supplementation. This does not imply a lack of iron availability; rather, it emphasizes the pivotal influence of CO2 and lighting, which yield the most pronounced shifts in plant coloration. While iron plays a vital role in the production of red pigments in plants, it is important to note that dosing extra iron beyond trace amounts does not lead to an increase in red pigment or pigment intensity. The plants will not produce more red pigment than necessary just because additional iron is provided. A little iron goes a long way, and overdosing on iron can be harmful to sensitive invertebrates like shrimp, which are highly sensitive to free copper and iron cations. Thus, it is crucial to maintain a balanced approach to iron supplementation to avoid adverse effects. In some cases, adding laterite clay to the substrate or incorporating liquid fertilizers containing small amounts of iron can enhance iron availability to the plants through the roots. However, it is important to highlight that the most remarkable changes in plant coloration consistently stem from the interplay of CO2 and lighting. Nitrate Levels: Surprisingly, lowering nitrates may also play a role in achieving peak redness in aquarium plants. Initially met with skepticism, this concept aligns with observations shared within the aquascaping community. While further research is needed to fully understand the mechanisms involved, it appears that reducing nitrates in the aquarium environment may positively impactthe intensity of red coloration in plants. Experimentation and observation remain essential in determining the optimal nitrate levels for promoting vibrant red hues in aquarium plants. To unlock the full potential of red coloration in aquarium plants, bright light and ample CO2 injection are key factors. While some plants, such as Ludwigia super red, can exhibit vibrant red hues even under moderate lighting conditions, most rotalas and other red plants require intense lighting in the appropriate spectrum/wavelength to achieve their full-color potential. In fact, studies suggest that the intensified red pigment serves as a form of sunscreen for the plant cells. Therefore, increasing light intensity can result in visible "suntanning" of certain plants, enhancing their red coloration. In conclusion, achieving red coloration in aquarium plants is a captivating pursuit for many enthusiasts. By prioritizing the provision of appropriate CO2 levels, optimizing lighting intensity, and ensuring sufficient iron availability, aquarists can enhance the likelihood of vibrant red hues in their planted tanks. However, it is important to remember that each plant species may respond differently to these factors, and experimentation and observation remain crucial to unlocking the true potential of red coloration in the aquatic plant world. Visit our online store for the largest selection of aquarium plants ++ Pond & Terrarium plants galore

Introduction: Step into the untamed splendour of the savannah with a captivating twist—right within the confines of your own home. Designing a Savannah or Dry Terrarium allows you to capture the essence of these vast, arid landscapes and cultivate a slice of natural wonder in a miniature world. With the right combination of plants, substrate, decor, and careful attention to environmental factors, you can create a captivating terrarium that showcases the rugged beauty of the savannah while requiring minimal maintenance. In this guide, we will embark on a journey to discover the art of crafting a Savannah or Dry Terrarium, where the charm of the wild meets the serenity of indoor gardening. We will explore the essential elements necessary to recreate the enchanting atmosphere of the savannah, including lighting arrangements that mimic the sun's warm rays, the optimal humidity levels to ensure the survival of your arid-loving plants, and the careful balance of watering to mimic the natural rhythms of the savannah. To curate an authentic savannah experience, we'll delve into the selection of plants, substrate, and decor that will bring this unique ecosystem to life. Emphasizing the beauty of drought-tolerant grasses, succulents, and carefully chosen flora, we will demonstrate how to create an oasis that is visually stunning and easy to maintain. By limiting the number of plant species and strategically arranging them alongside natural decor elements, you'll achieve a harmonious balance between nature's grandeur and the artistic expression of your terrarium. So, if you're ready to embark on an adventure that unleashes the wild beauty of the savannah into your living space, join us as we unlock the secrets of crafting a mesmerizing Savannah or Dry Terrarium. Prepare to be transported to a world where vast plains, golden hues, and resilient plant life merge in a captivating display of natural elegance. Let's explore the intricacies of building a low-maintenance sanctuary that brings the untamed spirit of the savannah right to your fingertips. What would you need? • Lighting: High/bright lighting to replicate the intensity of sunlight in the savannah. • Heating: "Heating" lamps to maintain optimal temperature, mimicking the warmth of the savannah. Avoid underground heating. • Humidity: Very low humidity levels to replicate the arid conditions of the savannah. • Watering: Water sparingly, only when the soil is completely dry, mirroring the infrequent rainfall of the savannah. • Substrate & Décor: Use a sandy substrate, adding loam if you plan to keep digging animals. Incorporate rocks and wood for a natural and rugged savannah aesthetic. • Plants: Select drought-tolerant plants that thrive in arid environments, resembling the resilient flora of the savannah. Include "dry" grasses that mimic the native grasses found in savannah landscapes. Choose specific succulent species that can withstand limited watering. Remember not all succulents are “drought resistant” so please do some research. By following these guidelines and using the appropriate lighting, heating, humidity, watering techniques, substrate, and plant selection, you'll be able to create a captivating savannah terrarium that brings the essence of this extraordinary ecosystem into your living space.

Introduction: Welcome to the enchanting world of desert terrariums, where the allure of arid landscapes meets the joy of indoor gardening. Creating a desert-inspired oasis within the confines of a terrarium is not only a visually stunning endeavour but also an opportunity to embrace the serenity of low-maintenance plant care. With the right selection of plants, substrate, decor, and attention to key factors like lighting, heating, humidity, and watering, you can craft a captivating desert terrarium that thrives with minimal upkeep. In this guide, we will delve into the art of designing a desert terrarium that embodies the raw beauty and tranquillity of arid environments. We'll explore the essential elements necessary to recreate a captivating desert landscape, including lighting requirements that mimic the intensity of sunlight, heating considerations for optimal plant growth, and the importance of maintaining low humidity levels. Additionally, we'll provide insights on watering techniques and highlight the ideal substrate and decor choices that will help cultivate an authentic desert atmosphere. To strike the perfect balance between aesthetics and practicality, we'll focus on carefully selecting a limited number of plant species, emphasizing slow-growing cacti, dry grasses, and drought-tolerant succulents that require minimal watering and upkeep. By following these guidelines, you'll be able to create a low-maintenance desert terrarium that showcases the timeless elegance of desert ecosystems, allowing you to appreciate their natural beauty from the comfort of your home or office. So, if you're ready to embark on a journey of creative expression and explore the allure of desert landscapes, join us as we unlock the secrets to designing a captivating and effortlessly beautiful desert terrarium. Let's uncover the art of harmonizing plant life, substrate, decor, and environmental factors to create a living masterpiece that brings the tranquillity of the desert indoors. Creating a desert terrarium with low-maintenance plants and a natural aesthetic is a great idea. Here's a breakdown of the requirements and the items you'll need: Lighting: High/bright lighting is essential for desert plants. You can use full-spectrum grow lights or place the terrarium near a bright window with indirect sunlight. Should you decide on lower lighting perhaps do a Savanah/dry terrarium or you will find the plants do not grow. Heating: Desert terrariums generally do not require additional heating. However, if your terrarium is in a cold environment, you can use heating lamps to maintain the ideal temperature range for desert plants. Avoid underground heating as it may promote excessive moisture. Humidity: Desert terrariums should have very low humidity levels. Monitor the humidity inside the terrarium and keep it as dry as possible. Avoid misting as it can increase humidity, but if you want to mist do so early in the morning. Watering: Desert plants have adapted to arid conditions and do not require regular watering. Water sparingly and only when the soil is completely dry for more than 1 week. It's crucial not to overwater, as excess moisture can cause root rot. Watering in winter should be even less than summer. Substrate & Décor: Use a sandy substrate with the addition of loam if you plan to keep animals that burrow. The sandy soil allows for good drainage and loam help to keep tunnels from collapsing. Rocks can be the focal point of your terrarium. Arrange them to create interesting structures and stability. Incorporate wood pieces to mimic the natural desert environment and add visual interest. Plants: Cactus: Choose slow-growing cactus varieties that are suitable for terrarium environments, such as Echinocactus, Astrophytum, or Mammillaria. Ensure you handle them with care to avoid prickles. Dry grass: Select ornamental grasses that resemble desert grasses, but we do not recommend you use live grass. Succulents: There are some succulent species that thrive in arid conditions and don't require frequent watering. Examples include Haworthia, Agave, or Aloe species. But do ensure you that you do not select succulents that can also tolerate the intense lighting. Remember, when selecting plants, focus on a limited number of species to maintain a natural appearance. Plant them together or create steps and arrangements to add variety while maintaining balance. Leave significant portions of the terrarium bare to mimic the sparseness of a desert landscape. With proper attention to lighting, heating, humidity, watering, substrate, decor, and plant selection, you can create a beautiful and low-maintenance desert terrarium.

Introduction: Terrariums offer a captivating way to create miniature ecosystems within the confines of glass walls. However, not all terrariums are the same. In fact, there are six distinct types, each with its own characteristics and requirements. In this blog post, we will explore these various types of terrariums and discuss their key differences, including factors such as watering, airflow, heating, UV radiation, humidity, lighting, and substrate. By understanding these variations, you can choose the best terrarium that suits your needs and desires. Types of Terrariums: · Desert Terrarium: - Low maintenance and ideal for slow-growing plants such as cacti, desert terrariums require minimal care, pruning, and regular watering. Picture a landscape adorned with rocks and resilient succulents. · Savanna/Dry Terrarium: - Similar to desert terrariums, the savanna/dry terrarium is also low maintenance. It features slow-growing plants, combining arid area aesthetics with grassland elements. It offers a touch of vibrancy to the otherwise dry landscape. · Woodlands Terrarium: - While not overly demanding, woodlands terrariums require some planning and regular watering. This type accommodates house plants, grasses, and limited or no moss. The lush greenery adds a refreshing touch to your terrarium. · Rainforest Terrarium: - Known for its high humidity, the rainforest terrarium is immensely popular. Moss plays a significant role in this type, and the terrarium is often closed to maintain optimal humidity. Larger rainforest terrariums may require automatic humidity spraying for easier maintenance. · Aquatic Terrarium: - Combining the beauty of woodlands plants with the serenity of aquatic life, this type incorporates a water element. It can be designed with a misting system or a waterfall to maintain high humidity for the plants while minimizing maintenance efforts. · Outdoor Terrarium: - Sunlight and seasonal temperatures are crucial considerations for outdoor terrariums. These terrariums vary greatly from one another, as each one is tailored to its specific location. The advantage of outdoor terrariums is that their maintenance is comparable to that of a plant tray, making them relatively easy to care for. Choosing the Perfect Terrarium: To determine the best terrarium for your needs, start by asking yourself why you want to build one. Understanding your purpose will guide you through the decision-making process. Consider the level of maintenance you are willing to commit to and the type of plants that inspire you. Additionally, research the specific requirements of any animals you intend to incorporate into the terrarium. Conclusion: Terrariums offer an enchanting way to bring miniature ecosystems into your living space. With six distinct types available, each with its own unique characteristics, you have the opportunity to create a captivating environment tailored to your preferences. From low maintenance desert terrariums to lush rainforest ecosystems, the choice is yours. By considering factors such as watering, airflow, heating, UV radiation, humidity, lighting, and substrate, you can build a terrarium that thrives and brings joy to your surroundings.

Introduction: Hemionitis arifolia, commonly known as the Heart Fern, is an exquisite choice for terrariums due to its compact size and captivating foliage. While ferns typically reproduce through spores and division, Hemionitis arifolia offers an additional fascinating method of reproduction. In this blog post, we will explore this unique aspect of Hemionitis arifolia's reproductive capabilities and its potential for creating new plants. Reproduction Methods of Hemionitis arifolia: · Division: One efficient way to propagate Hemionitis arifolia is through division. By carefully separating the rhizomes and potting them individually, you can rapidly produce new plants. This method takes advantage of the existing root system, allowing for quick establishment and growth. · Spore Propagation: Another method of reproduction in Hemionitis arifolia is through spores. Although slower than division, this method can be equally rewarding. Spores need to germinate and develop gametophytes, which eventually progress into the sporophyte phase, leading to the formation of new plants. While this process takes more time and patience, it showcases the fern's remarkable life cycle. · A Surprising Discovery: Reproduction from Mature Leaves: What sets Hemionitis arifolia apart is its ability to reproduce directly on mature leaves. Yes, you read that correctly! This unique characteristic often takes enthusiasts by surprise. Imagine removing a leaf and discovering a tiny "baby" growing on it. This phenomenon adds an exciting dimension to the already captivating world of fern propagation. Conclusion: Hemionitis arifolia, the Heart Fern, offers several intriguing methods of reproduction. Division and spore propagation are well-known techniques, each with its own advantages. However, the ability of Hemionitis arifolia to produce new plants directly on mature leaves introduces a surprising and delightful element to its reproductive repertoire. Whether you choose to propagate through division, spores, or explore the leaf reproduction option, Hemionitis arifolia is sure to bring beauty and fascination to your terrarium or garden. Want to understand this better? Here's how Hemionitis arifolia reproduces from a leaf: · Leaf Cutting: To propagate Hemionitis arifolia from a leaf, select a healthy and mature leaf from the parent plant. Using clean and sharp scissors, carefully cut off a leaf near its base. Ensure that the leaf is intact and free from any damage or disease. · Preparing the Potting Medium: Prepare a suitable potting medium for the leaf cutting. Hemionitis arifolia prefers a well-draining medium consisting of a mixture of peat moss, perlite, and/or orchid bark. This will provide good aeration and moisture retention. · Planting the Leaf Cutting: Make a small hole in the potting medium and gently insert the cut end of the leaf into the hole. Ensure that the leaf is inserted deep enough to stabilize it but avoid burying the leaf completely. The upper part of the leaf should remain above the soil surface. · Providing Optimal Conditions: Place the potted leaf cutting in a warm and humid environment with indirect light. Hemionitis arifolia thrives in bright but filtered light conditions. Maintain a consistent temperature between 70-80°F (21-27°C) and provide high humidity by misting the leaf or using a humidity dome or tray. · Watering and Moisture: Keep the potting medium consistently moist but not overly saturated. Water the cutting whenever the top layer of the soil feels slightly dry. Avoid overwatering, as it can lead to rotting. Mist the leaf regularly to maintain humidity around the cutting. · Root Development: Over time, the leaf cutting will develop roots from the cut end and start establishing itself in the potting medium. This process can take several weeks or even months. Be patient and continue to provide appropriate care. · Transplanting: Once the roots have developed, and the cutting has established a small plantlet, you can consider transplanting it into a larger pot or a suitable garden location. Ensure that the new planting site provides the necessary light, humidity, and growing conditions for Hemionitis arifolia. It's worth noting that propagating Hemionitis arifolia from a leaf can be a bit challenging compared to other fern species. However, with proper care, patience, and the right environmental conditions, you can successfully propagate new plants from leaf cuttings. Want to understand reproduction via spores better? Ferns reproduce through a unique method called spore reproduction, which involves the production and dispersal of tiny reproductive units known as spores. Here's a step-by-step overview of how ferns reproduce from spores: · Sporangia Formation: Ferns have structures called sporangia located on the underside of their fronds (leaves). These sporangia contain numerous spore mother cells. · Spore Development: Inside the sporangia, the spore mother cells undergo meiosis, a type of cell division that reduces the chromosome number by half. This process results in the production of haploid spores, which contain only one set of chromosomes. · Spore Release: When the spores are mature, the sporangia burst open, typically due to the drying and shrinking of the sporangial wall. This release can be triggered by various factors such as temperature, humidity, or physical disturbances. · Spore Dispersal: Once the sporangia rupture, the spores are dispersed into the surrounding environment. They are very lightweight and often have specialized structures like tiny wings or elaters that aid in wind dispersal. · Germination: When conditions are favorable, a spore may land on a suitable substrate, such as moist soil or decaying organic matter. The spore germinates and develops into a tiny, heart-shaped structure called a gametophyte (also known as a prothallus). · Gametophyte Development: The gametophyte is the haploid stage of the fern's life cycle. It possesses both male and female reproductive structures. Rhizoids, root-like structures, anchor the gametophyte to the substrate and absorb water and nutrients. · Sexual Reproduction: On the gametophyte, male reproductive organs called antheridia produce sperm cells, while female reproductive organs called archegonia produce egg cells. Water is required for fertilization since the sperm need to swim to reach the eggs. · Fertilization: When water is present, the sperm cells swim to the archegonia and fertilize the egg, forming a zygote. This zygote is the beginning of the diploid stage of the fern's life cycle. · Sporophyte Development: The zygote develops into a sporophyte, which is the familiar fern plant that we commonly recognize. The sporophyte grows from the gametophyte and eventually becomes independent. · Spore Production: As the sporophyte matures, sporangia develop on the undersides of its fronds. These sporangia will undergo the process mentioned earlier, producing and releasing spores, starting the cycle anew. It's important to note that ferns exhibit an alternation of generations life cycle, with a dominant sporophyte stage and a smaller gametophyte stage. The sporophyte is the visible fern plant we see, while the gametophyte is small and often inconspicuous.

Index – · Introduction · Example · Reasons they become invasive · Which species are not so invasive · Commonly asked for invasive species Introduction: When floating plants become invasive, they can disrupt the natural balance of aquatic ecosystems. They can block sunlight from reaching submerged plants, deplete oxygen levels in the water, and create stagnant areas that are unfavourable for fish and other organisms. It is crucial to be aware of the potential invasiveness of floating plants and take precautions to prevent their spread, especially by irresponsible hobbyists. Responsible management and disposal of these plants are important to prevent their introduction into natural water bodies, where they can cause harm to native flora and fauna. Example: Hartebeespoort Dam serves as a great example of the presence of invasive floating plants, particularly water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) and water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes). These plants have formed dense mats on the water surface, covering large areas of the dam. The proliferation of these invasive plants has had several negative impacts, including: Ecological Disruption: The dense mats of floating plants block sunlight from reaching submerged plants, inhibiting their growth and disrupting the natural balance of the aquatic ecosystem. This can lead to a decrease in native plant biodiversity and alter the habitat structure for aquatic animals. Reduced Oxygen Levels: The extensive coverage of floating plants can lead to reduced oxygen levels in the water. As these plants decay, they consume oxygen during the decomposition process, leading to hypoxic conditions that can be harmful to fish and other aquatic organisms. Water Flow Impediment: The thick mats of floating plants can impede the natural flow of water in the dam, resulting in stagnant areas, reduced water circulation, and increased sedimentation, which affects the overall health of the ecosystem. Recreational Interference: The presence of invasive floating plants can hinder recreational activities such as boating, fishing, and swimming. The dense mats can tangle in boat propellers and fishing gear, making navigation and fishing difficult. Reasons Floating Plants Are a Problem: Floating aquarium plants can be invasive due to several factors: Rapid Growth: Floating plants are known for their fast growth rates. They have efficient nutrient uptake capabilities and can quickly spread across the water surface, outcompeting other plants for resources. Reproduction: Floating plants often reproduce through vegetative propagation, where fragments of the plant can break off and grow into new plants. This method of reproduction allows them to spread rapidly and establish dense populations. Adaptability: Floating plants are highly adaptable and can thrive in various water conditions. They can tolerate a wide range of temperatures, pH levels, and lighting conditions, making them resilient and capable of invading different ecosystems. Lack of Natural Predators: In many cases, floating plants may not have natural predators or herbivores in the new environment where they are introduced. This absence of natural checks on their growth allows them to multiply unchecked and dominate the ecosystem. Alternatives to Invasive Floating Plants: Instead of using invasive floating plants, consider using alternative options that are less likely to cause harm to the environment. Some examples include: · Lagarosiphon major: This is an indigenous floating plant that is readily available and can be used as a suitable alternative. https://www.aquaticplants.co.za/product-page/lagarosiphen-major · Ceratopteris thalictroides, Ceratopteris pteridoides and Ceratopteris cornuta are plant species tha have the capability to grow as floating plants. Among them, I have a personal fondness for Ceratopteris pteridoides. During the summer, we typically have these plants available. However, due to limited space, we are unable to produce them during the winter months. It's worth noting that among these species, all the Ceratopteris sp. forms fully floating leaves, qualifying it as a 100% floating plant. The rest of the species mentioned here tend to float just below the water's surface. · Mayaca fluviatilis and Mayaca sellowiniana: These plants can float but prefer to be anchored. They can be used as substitutes for invasive floating plants. · Potamogeton crispus and Potamogeton schweinfurthii: These plants can float but also prefer to be anchored. They can serve as suitable alternatives in your aquarium. The most common species we are asked for, that are invasive https://invasives.org.za/wp-content/uploads/SAPIA_News_17_Oct2010.pdf · Water Hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) - https://invasives.org.za/fact-sheet/water-hyacinth/ · Water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) - https://invasives.org.za/fact-sheet/water-lettuce/ · Red water fern (Azolla filiculoides) - https://invasives.org.za/fact-sheet/red-water-fern/ · Tropical red water fern (Azolla microphylla) - https://invasives.org.za/wp-content/uploads/SAPIA_News_17_Oct2010.pdf · Azolla pinnata - https://invasives.org.za/wp-content/uploads/SAPIA_News_17_Oct2010.pdf · Salvinia molesta - https://invasives.org.za/wp-content/uploads/SAPIA_News_17_Oct2010.pdf · Australian Water Clover (Marsilea mutica) - https://invasives.org.za/fact-sheet/australian-water-clover/ · Canadian Water Weed (Elodea canadensis) - https://invasives.org.za/fact-sheet/canadian-water-weed/ · Dense water weed (Egeria densa) - https://invasives.org.za/fact-sheet/dense-water-weed/ · Spiked water milfoil (Myriophyllum spicatum) - https://invasives.org.za/fact-sheet/spiked-water-milfoil/ · Tropical water fern (Azolla cristata) - https://invasives.org.za/fact-sheet/tropical-water-fern/ · Water poppy (Hydrocleys nymphoides) - https://invasives.org.za/fact-sheet/water-poppy/ · Duckweed (Lemna minor) - https://www.arc.agric.za/arc-ppri/Leaflets%20Library/Duckweed.pdf · Cabomba (Cabomba caroliniana) - https://invasives.org.za/wp-content/uploads/SAPIA_News_17_Oct2010.pdf · Amazon Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum) - https://blog.invasive-species.org/2019/02/04/dangerous-waterweed-spreading-in-southern-africa/ · Egeria densa - https://invasives.org.za/wp-content/uploads/SAPIA_News_17_Oct2010.pdf · Red Root Floater (Phyllanthus fluitans) - https://www.tropicalaquarium.co.za/threads/pe-phyllanthus-fluitans.11454/ (Dirk – dwarf Catfish answer) By choosing non-invasive floating plants, we can prevent the spread of harmful species and protect our water resources. Let's be responsible hobbyists and contribute to the preservation of our aquatic ecosystems.

Submerged leaves vs emersed leaves in rotala Rotala is a genus of aquatic plants that is highly popular among aquarium hobbyists. There are many different species of Rotala, and each species can have different characteristics when it comes to the appearance of its submerged and emersed leaves. Submerged leaves are those that grow underwater, while emersed leaves are those that grow above the waterline. In general, submerged leaves of Rotala plants are narrower and more delicate than emersed leaves. They are also typically a lighter shade of green, due to the lower light levels that they receive underwater. Emersed plants are those that grow above the waterline and these leaves, on the other hand, are typically broader and thicker than their submerged counterparts. They are also usually a darker shade of green, due to the higher light levels that they receive above the waterline. Emersed leaves may also have a slightly different shape than submerged leaves, with some species having rounded leaves when emersed but narrow and pointed leaves when submerged. In addition to their appearance, there are also some functional differences between the submerged and emersed leaves of Rotala plants. Emersed leaves are better adapted to absorb carbon dioxide from the air, while submerged leaves are better adapted to absorb carbon dioxide from the water. Emersed leaves also tend to have more stomata, or tiny openings on the surface of the leaves that allow for gas exchange. Submerged plants are very easy to acclimatise to your aquarium conditions as they plant and leaves are already adapted to submerged conditions. Sadly Emersed is not so easy. When transitioning Rotala plants from emersed to submerged growth, it is important to note that the plants may initially experience some leaf die-off as they adapt to the new conditions. This is because the plants are redirecting their resources from growing emersed leaves to growing submerged leaves. However, with proper care and acclimation, the plants should eventually adapt to their new environment and begin to thrive. All our Rotala species, are available as ROOTED emersed plants for introduction to your aquariums. This allows the plants to grow faster and develop stronger root systems, which makes them more adaptable to submersed conditions. When introducing emersed Rotala plants to an aquarium, it is important to acclimate them slowly to the new environment. One of the ways this can be done is by placing the plants in a shallow container of water that is similar in temperature and pH to the aquarium water and lighting. The plants are then allowed to adjust to the new conditions for several days before being planted in the aquarium. Another is to plant them directly in your aquarium as long as your fish do not disturb them. Once the plants have been acclimated, they can be planted in the aquarium substrate. It is important to plant the stems of the Rotala plants deep enough in the substrate to prevent them from floating away. The substrate should also be nutrient-rich to support the growth of the plants. If you do not have aquasoil in your aquarium use plant tablets to introduce food to the roots OR plant them in a pot with nutrient soil and place the pot in the aquarium. In addition to substrate, lighting is an important factor to consider when introducing emersed Rotala plants to an aquarium. Our plants are grown in medium light with the specific reason that our plants acclimatise to your aquarium faster/easier when compared to plants that was grown in high light, the drawback of this is that our emersed plants does not look spectacular when you buy them BUT then our plants adjust extremely easy and fast to your aquarium conditions. Emersed plants are accustomed to medium light levels in our systems, and sudden exposure to lower light levels can cause the plants to suffer from shock and experience stunted growth. To prevent this, it is recommended to invest in good lighting before you introduce these plants and all other plants will appreciate it as well. Good lighting does not mean expensive, bright daylight lamps or LED’s will work well as long as you introduce enough light. The exception to this is if you want to enhance colours, then you need lighting with plant growth spectrums. CO2 supplementation can also be very beneficial when introducing emersed Rotala plants to an aquarium. CO2 helps to promote healthy growth and coloration, and can help the plants adjust to the new submersed conditions. In conclusion, there are some differences between the appearance and function of the submerged and emersed leaves of Rotala plants. These differences should be taken into account when transitioning the plants from emersed to submerged growth, as the plants may initially experience some leaf die-off as they adapt to their new environment.

15 reasons why Rotala is such a sought-after aquarium plant: Beautiful appearance: Rotala has a beautiful appearance, with delicate, feathery leaves that can be green or red. Versatile: Rotala can be grown both submerged and emersed, and can be used in a variety of aquarium setups. Fast growth: Rotala is a fast-growing plant, which means it can quickly fill in empty spaces in your aquarium. Good for aquascaping: Rotala is often used in aquascaping, as it can be used to create interesting shapes and textures in the aquarium. Oxygenating: Rotala is an oxygenating plant, which means it can help improve the oxygen levels in your aquarium. Can be used as a background plant: Rotala can grow quite tall, making it an ideal choice for a background plant in your aquarium. Tolerates a range of water conditions: Rotala is a hardy plant that can tolerate a range of water conditions, including pH levels between 6.0 and 7.5. Can tolerate low light: Rotala can tolerate low light conditions, making it a great option for aquariums without strong lighting, the only drwback is the loss of red colours. Can be propagated easily: Rotala can be propagated by cutting and replanting the stem, making it easy to increase your plant stock. Helps improve water quality: Rotala can help improve water quality by absorbing nitrates and other toxins from the water. Compatible with most substrates: Rotala can grow in a variety of substrates, including gravel, sand, and aquasoil. Non-toxic: Rotala is non-toxic and safe for most fish, making it a popular choice for planted tanks with a variety of aquatic inhabitants. Resistant to algae: Rotala is resistant to algae growth, which can help keep your aquarium clean and healthy. Provides hiding places for fish: Rotala can provide hiding places for fish and other aquatic creatures, making it a great addition to aquariums with shy or timid inhabitants. Widely available: Rotala is widely available in most aquarium stores, making it easy to find and purchase. So many good reasons to get yourself some Rotala's NOW OR Do you still think that Rotala sp. is not for you?